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Danish Brunch Plate served at Acid House in Gangnam District, southern Seoul PARK SANG-MOON
Bun, butter, cheese. The simple combination, enjoying a fashionable revival in Denmark, is also catching on thousands of kilometers away at Acid House in southern Seoul — with a twist of its own.
Known as BMO — short for bolle med ost, or “bun with cheese” in Danish — the longtime Danish breakfast staple has found renewed cachet at Copenhagen’s artisan bakeries, with quality bread, whipped butter and cheese coming together.
That BMO buzz has made its way to Acid House, a restaurant in Gangnam District, serving Danish-inspired dishes.
“We had so many orders today that we ran out midway through service and had to bake more right away,” said owner Woo Hee-hyun, who runs the restaurant with her husband, chef Cho Jae-hee.
Acid House has served BMO since its opening three and a half years ago, after visiting Danish bakers introduced the owners to the combination during a special pop-up event.
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But Woo said more diners now come for it, already familiar with the dish thanks to increased travel to Copenhagen and influencers sharing their BMO experiences online.
And Woo said many return for another bite.
“Once you try it, the combination is just really good.”
Acid House in Gangnam District, southern Seoul PARK SANG-MOON
The interior of Acid House PARK SANG-MOON
And it is. Acid House’s Danish Brunch Plate, priced at 16,000 won ($9), comes with two house-made breads: a dense rye bread studded with nuts and seeds, including pumpkin seeds and hemp seeds, and sourdough made from a natural starter nurtured for more than a decade. Alongside them come airy whipped butter, six-month-aged Comte cheese and a soft-boiled egg.
Spread the butter generously over the warm bun and add a slice of cheese. The chewy, faintly tangy bread, cloudlike butter and nutty Comte are familiar on their own, but together they make for one amazing, satisfying bite.
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Then there is homemade quince jam, Acid House’s special touch. A dollop of quince jam adds gentle sweetness, transforming the whole bite.
But Acid House’s Danish inspiration doesn’t stop at what’s on the plate. Woo and Cho wanted the restaurant itself to capture Denmark’s atmosphere after realizing that the lifestyle that they admired there closely matched how they wanted to live.
And for some, the space itself has become a reason to visit. The calm, laid-back feel, with high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, allows diners to watch the light and seasons change while enjoying house music in the background.
Acid House owner Woo Hee-hyun PARK SANG-MOON
The food follows the same easygoing philosophy. Danish-inspired dishes here are rarely extravagant, an approach that reflects what Woo admired during her visits to Denmark.
“What struck me was how much care people put into themselves and the things around them,” she said.
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For Woo, that same sensibility applies to food, and ordinary ingredients such as bread and butter become something richer when treated with care.
“It’s less about concentrating a lot of technique into a dish and more about letting things from everyday life flow naturally,” she said.
Abstract Potato Salad served at Acid House in Gangnam District, southern Seoul PARK SANGMOON
That philosophy is visible in Abstract Potato Salad (16,000 won). While Danish potato salads commonly combine potatoes with a creamy white sauce, Acid House pulls the elements apart. Three types of Korean-grown potatoes — purple Jayoung, a red-skinned variety and white sumi potato — are spread across the plate with fromage blanc, cornichons, caper berries and sherry vinegar.
“They may all look like potatoes, but each has a different appeal, flavor and texture,” Woo said. The idea, she said, is to make familiar ingredients feel new again.
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The restrained flavors also pair well with Copenhagen sparkling tea, an aromatic nonalcoholic option popular at the restaurant.
Taking a more creative approach is the Shrimp Smorrebrod (15,000 won), a take on a traditional Danish open-faced sandwich. Acid House tops rye bread with shrimp and egg mayo, then adds lemon, pickled fennel and tiny pieces of grapefruit pulp.
Shrimp Smorrebrod served at Acid House in Gangnam District, southern Seoul PARK SANG-MOON
“The grapefruit and fennel pickles are the kick,” Woo said. They are. The grapefruit bursts between bites of creamy egg and shrimp, while the pickled fennel provides another sharp counterpoint, preventing the combination from becoming overly bland.
What ties all the dishes together at Acid House is acidity, and that is no accident. It runs through much of Acid House’s cooking and gives the restaurant its name.
“Acidity is always an important element in food, wine and coffee,” Woo said. “In cooking, it can bring a dish to life, while in wine it can give structure.
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So we focus a lot on how we can use acidity in a way that doesn’t feel difficult but instead makes the food more enjoyable.”
Acidity runs from the sourdough’s gentle tang to the smorrebrod’s lemon, pickled fennel and grapefruit and the potato dish’s fromage blanc and caper berries. The ultimate goal is to make acidity enjoyable rather than simply sour, Woo said.
Wine bottles are displayed on a shelf at Acid House. PARK SANG-MOON
After 5 p.m., Acid House shifts into a wine bar, with some daytime dishes replaced by plates better suited to wine. Woo, who worked for a wine importer, oversees a selection of more than 200 bottles spanning a range of styles.
Ultimately, the restaurant is a collection of Woo and Cho’s own tastes.
“We’ve filled the space, little by little, with the things we love,” Woo said. “We wanted it to be a place where we could share those tastes with others.”
Located at Gangnam-daero 162-gil, Gangnam District, the restaurant is open Tuesday to Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., with a break between 3 p.m. and 5 p.m.
BY WOO JI-WON []
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